Manchester United welcomed by 'bonfire of passion' at Marseille bearpit

22 February 2011 09:23
SPECIAL REPORT From the hilltop estate where Samir Nasri grew up, you can make out Notre-Dame de la Garde through the morning mist, on the other side of Marseilles. [LNB]The golden statue of 'La Bonne Mere' (The Good Mother), child in her arms, which crowns the basilica is the symbolic guardian of the city in the way Christ the Redeemer protects Rio de Janeiro. She looks out for those who sail from the ancient battle-scarred port. [LNB]The likes of Nasri, whose skills were honed by the city's football club before he embarked for the Premier League with Arsenal. But this week she will be asked to take care of a team with its own stormy past as it prepares to engage with Manchester United. [LNB] Soldiers of mixed fortune: but Marseillesupporters always whip up a frenziedatmosphere[LNB]Olympique de Marseille are in theknockout stages of the Champions League for the first time sincewinning it in 1993, a triumph tarnished by bribery since they paiddomestic opponents to go easy on them ahead of the final against ACMilan.[LNB] Marseille were stripped of theFrench championship, which would have been their fifth on the trot, andrelegated due to the financial irregularities.Club president Bernard Tapie was later jailed. [LNB]Curiously, the European title wasallowed to stand, the only time a French team have won it, addingallure to the nation's biggest club. [LNB]Chris Waddle had left a year beforeMarseille beat Milan 1-0 in Munich but he knows footballing successmatters to all citizens of the city.[LNB] Late for work and speeding wellover the limit on the motorway near his former home in Aix-en-Provence, Waddle was once pulled over by highway police. When theyrealised it was 'Magic Chris' in a predicament, they flicked on thesirens and gave him an escort to Marseille' s La Commanderie trainingcomplex.[LNB] Sea of love: the resurgence of Marseille is reflected in their fervent following as the French champions ridethe crest of a new wave[LNB] 'I must have had about 50 speedingtickets and never paid one,' said Waddle. 'It's a big city with oneclub and everyone is totally behind it. [LNB]'The players would eat after thegame in a restaurant called Americana. It would be full of supportersand they'd stand and clap as we walked in.[LNB]WHEN GALLAS GOT ONE OVER UNITED The last time Manchester United entered the Stade Velodrome they lost 1-0 to Marseille in a 1999 Champions League group game, William Gallas scoring the only goal in the 69th minute. Paul Scholes and Ryan Giggs are the only survivors from the United team that day. It was United's and Sir Alex Ferguson's only previous visit to the stadium. Ferguson never took Aberdeen to France during 10 European campaigns. [LNB] 'There's such passion, they worshiptheir players. Free meals, free drinks. I can't remember meeting anyonefrom Marseilles who supported another club. Every bar, restaurant,home, car would have something with OM in it. 'It's a special place andit gets under your skin. It helped that we had a fantastic side, mind.'[LNB] In Waddle's three years there, theclub won three French titles and lost on penalties in the European Cupfinal as he forged a prolific understanding with Jean-Pierre Papin. [LNB]The team from 1989-90 were featuredin the programme for last Saturday's game against St Etienne: Waddlecomplete with mullet and perm, Papin, Jean Tigana, Enzo Francescoli andDidier Deschamps, now coach of the team who are French champions againfor the first time since the scandal. [LNB]Stade Velodrome will be packed toits 60,000 capacity and at full volume for United's visit - its VirageSud (south stand) dominated by drums, flags and the 'South Winners'supporters group with their penchant for orange.[LNB] On Saturday, a giant banner wasunfurled of a bulldog bursting through a brick wall, wearing a whiteFred Perry shirt with the electric blue trim of Marseille.[LNB]Opposite, the Yankee Nord isanother frenzied mosh-pit of chaos directed by shirtless ring-leaderswith loud-hailers. It is home to groups of fans of ten with connectionsto the city's large immigrant population, many from north Africa. Forthose ethnic groups who feel disenfranchised in modern France, the clubprovide identity in a way Barcelona once did for a Catalan. [LNB] Intimidating surroundings: Stade Velodrome will be packed to its 60,000 capacity and at full volumefor United's visit[LNB]St Etienne's boisterous fans tauntedthe Yankees with the French tricolore, notably absent from the forestof flags brandished by home supporters. [LNB]Zinedine Zidane, born in the city toBerbers from the Kabylie region in northern Algeria and raised on theedgy La Castellane estate, considers himself an OM fan, despite neverplaying for them and went with friends to the Velodrome when he wasplaying at Cannes. Zidane once tried to unravel his own identity bysaying: 'First I am a Kabyle from La Castellane and then an Algerianfrom Marseilles, then a Frenchman.' [LNB]Racial politics are never far from the agenda in France, least of all at a time when many Arab states are in revolt.[LNB] 'Stop the massacre in Tunisia' isscrawled on a wall of the stadium. It is a tangled subject but adds tothe bonfire of passion whipped up within the Velodrome.[LNB] Zidane, for all his exquisiteself-control, was prone to eruption. The same can be said of otherfootballing Marseillais, not least United icon Eric Cantona, whoseparents came from Sardinian and Catalan families.Cantona left the club after hurling his boots at a team-mate. [LNB]The city's melting-pot culture bothsupplies a wealth of raw talent and extends the club's reach, whichDidier Drogba, a Marseille idol after only one season there, likens toBarca or Manchester United.[LNB] 'I saw OM shirts in the USA, aswell as in small market towns,' said Drogba. 'In Africa too.' Drogba,like Waddle, found the place left an imprint on his psyche. All ofwhich can inspire the home team but may not perturb Manchester United. [LNB]'They are used to playing in ahostile atmosphere and have an experienced manager,' said striker AndreAyew, one of two sons of club legend Abedi Pele now playing atMarseille. [LNB]More than 50,000 witnessed theweekend's 2-1 win over St Etienne which puts Marseille third in theleague. But a groin injury for gifted, yet erratic, strikerAndre-Pierre Gignac has knocked confidence. Mathieu Valbuena,instrumental this season in helping his club beat Chelsea and hiscountry to see off England, has also been out with a knee injury and isnot expected to start, leaving Deschamps to promote his team as pluckyoutsiders. [LNB]'We have history,' said Deschamps.'We won the Champions League, we have 10 or 11 French titles (11includes the one stripped in 1993 which OM still include on their rollof honour) and we are a very popular club with a lot of fans. [LNB]'But that means nothing compared toManchester United, Real Madrid or Barcelona. 'We are a French clubwithout enough money. We live at a different economic level and thatmakes a big difference. Nor do we have their experience in theChampions League. But you never know. We will give our best.' [LNB]And Notre-Dame de la Gard may take care of them.[LNB] I want to win more at United! Evra ends exit talk to sign new three-year dealPablo Mills' diary: Now the fight starts over the Manchester United shirtsIs that all you've got in reserve? Fergie's fringe players let him downManchester United FC news from across the web [LNB] [LNB]  Explore more:People: Alex Ferguson, Paul Scholes, William Gallas, Ryan Giggs, Jean Tigana, Zinedine Zidane Places: Barcelona, Munich, Cannes, Rio De Janeiro, Aberdeen, Milan, Tunisia, France, Algeria, United Kingdom

Source: Daily_Mail